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Hand-formed lead flashing dressed around a brick chimney on a slate roof

Serving West Sussex & Brighton

Lead workand flashingsformed by hand

The junctions are where roofs leak, and lead is what stops them. Code-appropriate flashings, valleys, chimney lead and lead flat roofs, cut in and dressed on site, not sealed over with mastic. Fixed price agreed first.

Third-generation roofer · lead formed on site, not off the shelf · 25-year workmanship guarantee

25 yrs
Workmanship guarantee on leadwork
£2m
Public liability insurance
Fixed
Written price before any work begins
Free
Quote visits across West Sussex & Brighton

The service

Where the roof stops being tiles and starts being detail

Lead work is the waterproofing at every junction a roof has: where it meets a chimney, a parapet, a party wall, a dormer cheek, a rooflight or a rendered elevation, and where two slopes drain into one valley. Lead is used because it can be dressed to an irregular shape by hand, moves with the building instead of cracking, and lasts for generations when the right code is used and it is fixed to allow that movement.

It is needed on any property with abutments, stacks or valleys, which in practice is most Victorian and Edwardian housing in Brighton and Hove, most terraces in Worthing, and any house with a dormer, an extension or a chimney.

It matters that a roofer does it because lead is unforgiving of shortcuts. Too thin a code splits. Overlong pieces fixed rigidly buckle and tear as they expand. Lead sealed into a joint with mastic instead of wedged and pointed drops out within a few years. We form our own lead on site so it fits the building rather than approximately fitting a category of building.

  • Who it's for

    Owners of period and modern properties with chimneys, dormers, parapets, valleys or abutments, and anyone with a leak that keeps returning to the same junction.

  • When it's needed

    Damp beside a chimney breast, staining where an extension meets the house, lead that has cracked, lifted or been mastic-repaired, or a valley overflowing in heavy rain.

  • What you get

    Failed lead cut out and replaced in the correct code, dressed and wedged into a raked joint, pointed, and guaranteed for 25 years on workmanship.

What it costs to leave it

Failed lead leaks into the walls, not the loft

Unlike a slipped tile, defective lead usually puts water straight into masonry and internal walls, so the damage appears in rooms rather than in the loft, and it appears expensive.

  • Damp on chimney breasts

    Water tracking past a failed stack flashing soaks the breast, spoils plaster and decoration, and gets blamed on everything except the lead.

  • Rotting timbers at abutments

    Water entering behind an upstand runs into wall plates and rafter ends, the timbers that are most awkward and most costly to replace.

  • Blown render and pointing

    Saturated masonry pushes render off and washes mortar out, so a leadwork problem turns into a masonry bill.

  • Repeat callouts that fix nothing

    Mastic and flashing tape over failed lead buy a season each time. Three of those cost more than doing it once, properly.

Common mistakes

  • Running sealant or self-adhesive flashing tape over failed lead instead of replacing it.
  • Using too thin a code for the exposure, so the lead splits along the fold within a few years.
  • Fixing lead in overlong single pieces with no allowance for thermal movement; it buckles and tears.
  • Resting flashing on the surface of the brickwork instead of cutting it into a raked joint and wedging it.
  • Leaving old lead in place and tiling up to it during a re-roof, so the weakest part of the roof is the newest roof's oldest component.

Our process

How the job runs, step by step

01

Free inspection

We look at the junction that's failing and the ones that haven't yet, stacks, valleys, abutments and dormers usually fail on a similar timescale.

02

Diagnosis

You get told what has actually failed: the lead itself, its fixing, the joint it sits in, or the pointing above it. Each has a different fix.

03

Fixed price agreed

A written figure covering access, materials and making good. No day rates on fiddly work, the price is set before we start.

04

Strip out and prepare

Old lead and any mastic bodges come off, the joint is raked out cleanly, and the substrate is checked for damage hidden behind it.

05

Form and dress

Lead cut to sensible lengths in the correct code, bossed and dressed to the shape of the building, wedged into the joint and pointed.

06

Test and guarantee

We check the water path from top to bottom, make good, clear the site, and guarantee the workmanship for 25 years.

What you get

The difference it makes

A junction that stays dry

Lead cut into the joint and dressed to the building sheds water for decades, instead of a sealant bead that fails on the first hard frost.

Formed to your building

We boss and dress on site, so awkward stacks, bay roofs and rendered abutments get a fit, not a compromise.

Movement designed in

Correct code, sensible lengths and proper fixing let the lead expand and contract without splitting.

The real fault fixed

We check what sits above and behind the lead, pointing, render, flaunching, so the new lead isn't fed water from somewhere else.

Neat, unobtrusive work

Cut, wedged and pointed lines that look like part of the building rather than a repair stuck onto it.

£2m public liability, guaranteed

£2 million public liability, with 25 years of workmanship guarantee.

In detail

Lead codes, methods and where it goes

Lead is specified by code, its thickness, and detailed by hand. The right code, the right lengths and the right fixings are what separate leadwork that outlives the covering from leadwork that fails before the guarantee does.

Codes and materials

Heavier codes go where the lead is exposed, walked on, or has to span; lighter codes suit soakers and small details. Choosing by cost rather than by exposure is the single most common cause of split lead, and it is why we specify per junction rather than buying one roll for the whole job.

Lead is dressed with wooden tools rather than forced, cut to lengths that allow for thermal movement, and patinated where appropriate so it weathers evenly instead of streaking the elevation below.

The details we form

Most leadwork on a Sussex house falls into a handful of standard details, each with its own failure mode and its own correct method.

  • Chimney front aprons, soakers and back gutters
  • Stepped flashings to abutment walls
  • Cover flashings over flat roof upstands
  • Lead valleys between slopes
  • Dormer cheeks, tops and side flashings
  • Parapet and box gutters
  • Bay roofs and small lead flat roofs
  • Rooflight and vent pipe details

Lead flat roofs and bay roofs

Small lead-covered flat areas, bay roofs, porch tops, dormer tops, are still common on period property, and they work well when the bays are sized correctly, laid on a proper substrate with underlay, and joined with welts and drips rather than solder everywhere.

Where an existing lead flat roof has been patched repeatedly, we will tell you honestly whether re-laying the lead or converting to a three-layer torch-on felt system is the better value for that particular roof.

Working with chimneys and masonry

Lead at a chimney only works if the masonry around it works. Perished flaunching, open joints or spalled brick will feed water past even perfect flashings, so we check the stack as part of the job rather than treating it as somebody else's problem.

Because we also carry out chimney work and repointing, the whole detail, stack, flaunching, pointing and lead, gets put right in one visit, under one fixed price.

Domestic and commercial applications

On houses, leadwork is usually small-scale and highly visible: stacks, dormers, bays and extension abutments where neatness counts as much as watertightness.

On commercial buildings it tends to be parapets, box gutters and long abutments where volume of water and expansion over long runs drive the detailing. Both get the same approach: correct code, sensible lengths, proper fixing.

Coastal and exposed properties

Along the coast at Worthing, Shoreham-by-Sea, Littlehampton, Hove and Brighton, wind-driven rain gets uphill. Upstand heights and lap dimensions that are adequate inland are not always adequate on a seafront elevation.

We detail with the exposure of the property in mind, which usually means more generous upstands and laps and closer attention to fixings on the windward side.

Where we work

Lead work across West Sussex & Brighton

If your town isn't listed, call anyway; we're usually nearby.

Related services

Often done at the same time

See all roofing services, go back to the homepage, or contact us for a free quote.

Straight answers

Lead work questions

How much does lead flashing work cost?

It depends on the detail, the code of lead and how we reach it, a front apron on a low stack is very different from a full chimney set with scaffold. We price each job after looking at it, as a fixed written figure agreed before starting.

How long does leadwork last?

Properly specified and fixed lead lasts for decades and routinely outlives the roof covering around it. Split or slipped lead is nearly always a code, length or fixing problem rather than the material wearing out.

Can't the flashing just be sealed?

Sealant over failed lead is a temporary measure at best; it lasts a season or two and then peels, usually after another winter of water in the wall. We replace failed lead rather than dressing it up.

How long does the work take?

Most individual details are a day or less once access is in place. A full chimney set, a valley or a parapet gutter takes longer, and anything needing scaffold is scheduled around it.

Do you replace lead valleys?

Yes: lead valleys are re-formed or replaced regularly, and we'll also replace failed GRP or cement valleys with lead where the roof suits it.

Why is my chimney damp inside if the lead was replaced?

Because lead is only part of the detail. Perished flaunching, open joints or spalled brickwork feed water past good flashings. We check and price the stack as a whole rather than replacing lead in isolation.

Do you carry out lead work on listed or period properties?

Yes. Period property is where most leadwork lives, bays, parapets, stacks and dormers, and hand-forming on site is what makes it fit. Any listed-building consents are the owner's to obtain.

Is the leadwork guaranteed?

Yes: 25 years on our workmanship. It excludes storm damage, third-party damage and material failure, which sits under the manufacturer's guarantee.

Can you do leadwork as part of a re-roof?

That's how it should be done. Renewing lead while the scaffold is up and the covering is off costs far less than returning to it later.

Do you cover emergency leaks at flashings?

We are contactable 24 hours a day, with a call-out fee for emergency and out-of-hours work after 5pm.

Free, no-obligation quote

Get the junction sorted for good

If damp keeps returning to the same chimney, dormer or abutment, it's almost always the lead. We'll come out free, work out what's failing and give you one fixed price to put it right.

07766 878193

Or email bwroofing1@icloud.com · Serving West Sussex & Brighton

Read our customer reviews

  • 25-year workmanship guarantee
  • £2m public liability
  • Fixed price, never day rates